PORCELAIN: 2009/ Spring-Summer

Chinese Classism / Modern Urbanity
SHIATZY CHEN has always been on the crosscurrent of transformation–from the traditions of Chinese classics to today’s Parisian street vocabulary. The inspiration of the S/S 2009 Collection that premieres today at École Nationale Supérieure des Beaux-Arts reinforces the high arts of China.

Imperial Workshops
For centuries, porcelain has been the object of desire for Emperors of the Forbidden Palaces and courts of Europe. Fine porcelain from the Song dynasty has been the benchmark of refinement, elegance and taste. The vessels take shape on the Paris runway - the elongated forms, the fine patina, the glazed color palette, the details of collars, shoulders and silhouette always sculptural and detailed in cutting and form. The concept references an iconic vase – fragile yet hard, permanent yet perishable, coveted but deconstructed. The arts of SHIATZY CHEN can be appreciated through their delicate details.

The color palette with intensified hues–Oxblood, Celadon, Blanc de Blanc, Claire de Lune and Peach Blossom – are a tribute to the past with modern glaze and tints. The silhouette of contrasts of billowing lengths and short cropped skirts and shorts give a modern twist and excitement. The form and volumes of profile give the vessels new breath.

The embroidery, rich in detail, enhances the look with a subtle playfulness. Hand painting of calligraphy by masters, create a scene that dance to poetic verses.

Zen Perfection
SHIATZY CHEN strives for the Zen moment of perfection. The moment of calmness after a typhoon or storm, when nature reflects and man is powerless. A true master creates in harmony and looks for the ecstasy of Zen in an orgy of chaos.

Hardness of Being
Porcelain, developed from soft kaolin clay, fired at violent temperatures becomes a substance of ultimate desire. Deconstruction, evolution, transformation. The process of design is an eternal state of SHIATZY CHEN: a unique balance of lust and resilience.

THE ROAD OF THE POETIC: 2009/ Autumn-Winter

For centuries the Silk Road transport and trade goods as silks, satins, perfumes, spices, medicines, jewels, and glassware, while serving as a conduit for the spread of knowledge, ideas, and cultures from the East to the West. More importantly, the Silk Road established a foundation for modern civilizations including China. The splendor and grandeur of ancient China was exemplified as the Silk Road uncovered China’s exquisite culture and art to the world. Inspired by the glorious Tang Dynasty and artistic magnificence of Tun Huang, Design Director of Shiatzy Chen incorporated colors of the mystifying ocean, solemn dessert, and sprawling lands producing dreamy mystifying imageries and metaphors, or the “The Road of the Poetic” collection.

Reminiscent of traders who voyage across the Silk Road facing extensive weather conditions, SHIATZY CHEN produced a fresh and modern women’s collection featuring versatile pieces that can be layered. Variety of somber colors as moss green, Prussian blue, pearly grey, to warm cherry reds, persimmon, ochre, signifies weather conditions from blistering sand storms, hot humid heat to frigid blistery winters creating the aura of Tang Dynasty. Myriad of colors are combined with a classic 50’s silhouette. Some consists of a traditional empire waist; while others are adorned with Chinese interlace crochet. It depicted the lifestyle of the Tang women, loose clean flowing lines and contours recreated traditional imageries such as graceful pastures of willows, flowers, and oasis.

While maintaining a timeless, elegant, refined, and chic fashion, SHIATZY CHEN seeks new concepts through extraordinary materials and intricate craftsmanship. The handbag collection consists of square shaped bags made with innovative leathers and horse-hair creating abundant textures and finishes. Classic evening bags received a new look as they were adorned with elaborate embroideries topped off with jade handles. Shoes including high heels and boots maintain its traditional silhouette ornamented with a contemporary touch of mink. Accessories obtain ancient oriental influence as “Ru-yi” emblems are embedded into designs. Geometric designs are incorporated suggesting modernity. Sophisticated Chinese craftsmanship is exemplified by intricate details on enamels created by unique techniques using gold and crystals.

SHIATZY CHEN envisions and fantasizes the modern global business traveler as a voyager and trader journeying through the Silk Road. Asian influences resonate in scenic destinations and cultures around the world, reminiscent of SHIATZY CHEN’ designs.

2010 S/S COLLECTION: Rendition of the Soul

Calligraphy is a form of art as its intrinsic qualities embody and accentuate aesthetics and cultural awareness. For thousands of years Chinese writing has maintained its grace and agility through the dexterous and precise brushwork of its masters and their employment of rhyme, metaphors, and allegory, creating a unique approach. "The essence of the artist can be portrayed through expressions made in various brushstrokes forming poignant expressions in ink. Refined, sophisticated, and a charming élan are intrinsic to the works of art." Through these methods, sentiments are manifested in what otherwise appears to be just an orderly procession of words. Moreover, inherit qualities of written words allow for the discovery of profundities in life.

SHIATZY CHEN’s 2010 Spring-Summer Collection combines contemporary fashion with artistic and cultural elements. The theme “Rendition of the Soul” has inspired designs that portray the emotional, liberating, and free flowing style of classic calligraphy. Master Dong Yangzi exercises her brush to create a distinctive, unique, and vivid style. Moreover, the playfulness and eloquence of brushstrokes and various tones of ink articulate her emotions. In other words, the creations are works of art that are produced by heart felt passion and sentiments. These elements create this season’s contemporary new look that is both poised and graceful.

The cutting this season consists of bell and H shaped contours inspired by Madame Wei, a calligrapher from the Eastern Jin dynasty of China. Wei's masterful techniques and forms of expression have been transformed into elements of style. Wei suggested Chinese brushstrokes of various spotted forms emulate rocks falling from a high cliff; meanwhile diverse horizontal lines depict clouds spanning an expansive area. Vertical brushstrokes and lines illustrate the resilience of vines that have existed for centuries enduring crashing waves or rolling thunders embodying unwavering strength. Combining fashion with calligraphy, SHIATZY CHEN’s embroidery and jacquard cloth, creates a rich visual effect through various layering of lines, shapes, and silhouettes further implying the depth and essence of calligraphy.

Materials incorporated in the collection include organza jacquard, double colored satin, chiffon, hollow jacquard, taffeta, and silk-linen blends embellished with exquisite velvet and CRYSTALLIZED™ - Swarovski Elements. Classic flower embroidery and modern geometrical patterns are created as the designs evoke the style of brush strokes.

The colors are derived from the profound aesthetics of the East and arranged through juxtapositions to complement one another. Through the black and white ink backdrop, peacock blue, lilac violet, and dull lavender colors contrast one another. These combinations figuratively represent a sublime nature of life.

Apart from incorporating classical art forms, SHIATZY CHEN’s 2010 Spring-Summer collection embodies creativity as it interprets metaphorical life experiences into art. Continuing SHIATZY CHEN’s signature style, elements from the East and West are culminated melding classic and contemporary fashion. Depicting a poetic landscape, SHIATZY CHEN seeks to innovate as traditional elements are anointed with imaginative designs and concepts.

SHIATZY CHEN 2010 A/W Collection: Essence of Jade

Book of Words: Historically jade was perceived to be the most valuable and precious of all of stones as it symbolizes nobility, perfection, and immorality. Moreover as jade embodied Confucian virtues of wisdom, justice, compassion, modesty and courage, it was used by gentlemen and scholars were an auspicious and noble accessory for thousands of years.

Shiatzy Chen’s 2010 A/W Collection seeks to produce exquisite designs by integrating the inherent qualities of jade in ancient China to modern craftsmanship and tailoring. The collection Essence of Jade is inspired by the innate characteristics and persona of jade culminated with modern esthetics and imagery to form new compositions.

An oriental aura is created as the collection is composed of elegant simple H line silhouettes, which is also reminiscent of women in 1950s. Furthermore, fabrics as luscious silks, flowing chiffons, vibrant satins, woven cloths, fine leathers, and intricate lace are adorned with luxurious jade and Swarovski crystals accessories.

Thus the collection results in a beautiful amalgamation of oriental esthetics and western splendor.

Feminine charm is created through dark colors that are complemented and anointed with touches of gold, purple, blue, green, red, and black evoking a romantic and mystic oriental sentiment. The collection integrates mediums from the east and the west, as the virtues of jade is used to create unique modern designs.

2011 AW: Treasure Kit

Shiatzy Chen’s 2011 Autumn/ Winter Collection is inspired by the traditional Chinese accessory, the “treasure kit,” a small purse and accessory, traced back to more than 2,000 years ago, as written in the book of “Li Sao” during the Warring States Period. Traditionally, numerous ethnic groups across China bear the treasure kit, representative of various emotional and auspicious meanings. From the exquisite embroidery and ornate embellishments on the purses, the historical background and geographic varieties across China are revealed. Therefore, the treasure kit is a functional unique artistic form of expression representing the profound cultural and historical heritages of China, influential to the 2011 Autumn/ Winter Collection.

Incorporating warm rich colors, luxurious ethnic tribal elements of leather and fur, opulent embroidery and embellishments, Shiatzy Chen’s 2011 Autumn/ Winter Collection embodies a mysterious atmosphere of a far-away kingdom in the orient. This season’s color palette is abundant with vibrant colors suggestive of a Chinese treasure kit. From pastel pinks, peachy pinks, to vibrant fuschia, burgundy, amethyst, magenta, to lapis lazuli and peacock blues, the collection is opulent. Tribal elements this season are depicted through natural, organic materials as tweeds and silk.

This season’s silhouette is a combination of exquisite oriental and lavish Edwardian elements along with simple, sleek forms of the modern active women in the late 1910’s. Fabrics are adorned with abundant embellishments of Swarovski Elements and embroidery suggestive of treasure kits in China by various ethnic settings. The theme of the embroidery corresponds to the Chinese lunar year of the rabbit. Imagery of the embroidery includes playful rabbits jumping on butterflies. Additionally, intricate peonies and lilies express a pleasant and promising new year to come.

Shiatzy Chen’s 2011 Autumn / Winter collection “Treasure Kit” is inspired by the magnificent Chinese history which yields after generations of ethnic and cultural integration. With the amalgamation of exotic tribal and contemporary modern elements, Shiatzy Chen celebrates the Chinese history, through a little purse that reveals the great and grand heritage of China, the treasure kit.

2012 SS Inspiration: Snuff Bottle

Similar to Shiatzy Chen’s design philosophy, the Chinese snuff bottle culture employed new techniques by merging Chinese and Western elements providing a new dimension to Chinese craftsmanship. This new stage of craftsmanship witnessed the transition from the imitation of Western snuff boxes to the development of its own style. By the end of the 17th century, snuff bottles soon became fashionable as it was seen as an object of beauty and a way to represent status. The highest recognition went to those who had the rarest and finest snuff bottle. Apart from their functionalities, the exquisite and ornate snuff bottles combined traditional adept Chinese craftsmanship utilizing burnishing, sculpting, painting, and calligraphy on petit bottles. These aesthetics inspired Shiatzy Chen’s 2012 Spring/ Summer Collection, the “Snuff Bottle.”

Shiatzy Chen’s 2012 Spring/ Summer Collection is influenced by the exquisite craftsmanship and culture behind the snuff bottle. In order to portray the snuff bottle’s amazingly carved glass with multilayered colors, the collection combines translucent glossy organza and satin materials. Bright glimmering neon colored designs creates modernity as it is layered with vintage influenced lace and airy ethereal materials, exhibiting the luminous quality of porcelain and glass snuff bottles. The use of patterned and flower-print jacquard is reminiscent of snuff bottles with painted patterns and meticulous inner paintings.

The collection is affected by the innovative Western invention and ingenious Chinese craftsmanship, implicating the mixture of Asian and Western cultures in the Qing Dynasty. Bearing references to the west especially the 60’s icons as Jacqueline Kennedy, Audrey Hepburn and the era’s simple geometric silhouettes and elegant three-quarter sleeve suits anointed with over-sized buttons constitute this season’s classic key looks. Embroidered accents include beaded pearls, corals, and Swarovski Element crystals, intertwine with retro neon colors, alternated by the blue of the Chinese blue and white porcelain and red of the Qing lacquerware.

This season’s style resonates and pays homage to the magnificent allure of the snuff culture. Shiatzy Chen’s 2012 Spring/ Summer Collection “Snuff Bottle,” is aspired by the traditional Chinese snuff bottle and the iconic western fashions that marked the 60’s. Corresponding to the snuff culture, the collection integrates eastern and western cultural elements creating a unique timeless collection. Shiatzy Chen’s collection encapsulates the bygone era as it captures the aesthetic essences of the Qing dynasty’s snuff bottle culture.

2012AW: Weaving a Dream

The Miao people are groups of linguistically related ethnic minorities inhabiting parts of Southern China and Southeast Asia with origins dating back to the Stone Age. Due to the turbulent history of that region that has forced mass migrations to remote, mountainous areas, the Miao do not share a common written language. Consequently, highly unique expressions of religion, culture, art, and emotions have taken form in Miao clothing and accessories. Culturally significant Miao embroidery and totems have since evolved into a form of written expression that depicts Miao the history and traditions.

Shiatzy Chen’s 2012/13 Fall/Winter collection, Weaving a Dream, brings the beauty of age old memories in Miao culture back to life. Traditional Miao embroidery has been described not only as offerings made to their ancestors and deities, but also compositions that transcend logic, ratio, or even time and space. The figure at the center is the subject of the embroidery and the surrounding forms represent the Miao’s view of the universe, which, in unison, create an arrangement depicting harmony between heaven and earth. Shiatzy Chen’s Weaving a Dream collection captures this richness of the imagination and pursuit of spirituality through bold lines interwoven with delicate curves on colorful materials decorated with geometric shapes and abstract representations.

Various Miao patterns including butterflies in flight, mythical beasts, or rhythmic waves, which represent elegance, spirituality, or tranquility, take shape using Suzhou embroidery technique in this collection in bright and rich hues of red, blue, yellow and green. Materials such as fur, lace, organza, and metallic blending fabrics are printed, embroidered, or mixed to enrich this collection. Ornament such as beads, embroidery, or Swarovski Elements come together in geometric patterns to adorn this season’s accessories. Also, the auspicious motifs of the dragon and the phoenix are infused to correspond with the celebrated Year of the Dragon.

Shiatzy Chen’s 2012/13 fall/winter collection brings attention to the highly artistic and valuable yet vanishing culture of the Miao’s traditional embroidery. Shiatzy Chen amalgamates traditional art and high fashion to weave a dream celebrating the richness of Chinese culture in the world of fashion.