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Fashion Talk

Bav Tailor

Designer
Label Bav Tailor

Following a philosophy of durability, quality and trend-free style

Born in London and Indian by origin, Bav Tailor is the Founder of her eponymous label. Her creations are a collective fusion of generation less silhouettes and effortless geometrical volumes inspired by design, architecture and Eastern philosophies crafted from wellness certified natural or recycled materials. In an interview with Fibre2Fashion, the designer throws light on the challenges she faced while creating a conscious luxury label and the differences she finds between European and Indian fashion markets.

Fibre2Fashion: What do you love the most about your lifestyle, why?

Bav Tailor:

My free-spiritedness. The freedom to work with good people who are conscious of their attitudes and actions, the flexibility to balance my work and personal life, but most of all to have a purpose project that instils respect within me and those that encircle me each passing day.

 

F2F: From being a nomad to a fashion designer, how was your journey and what lessons were learned?

BT:

Born in London, Indian by origin, a nomad in spirit, my family upbringing and travels have steered me to reside in continents amidst all creeds and cultures East to West. This has provided me with an innate sensibility towards humanity. 
My life for sure has endured many twists and turns. It was only when I started listening to my intuition and acting on universal signs that led me to the path of my current journey and who I am today. With each life challenge, looking back, I have always learnt a lesson which has allowed me to become a more resilient human being.

F2F: What challenges have you experienced developing a brand with motive of conscious and sustainable clothing?

BT:

At the beginning, the biggest challenge was the limited availability of high quality certified sustainable materials and ethical production processes. The concept of sustainable fashion was stereo-typed as a cheap eco t-shirt made of hemp which after a few washes lost form, quality and colour. Hence my endeavour was to launch a ‘conscious luxury’ brand producing products that followed a philosophy of durability, quality and trend-free style. It was very difficult to find authentic suppliers and producers who truly understood the meaning of sustainability, not just in terms of certifications but in attitude.

I founded my company in 2013 after a soulful trip to Gujarat, the homeland of my ancestors in 2011, hence my surname Tailor (Darji). Since its inception, it is very inspiring to see and be contacted by so many conscious suppliers who have integrated sustainability as part of their business model. As a new generation brand, the challenge that I still face with some suppliers are extremely high MOQ which for sure is not in line with my slow-fashion business model, plus the high cost of the materials which I absorb within my margins to not overcharge the client. Within the sector in general, these high costs in turn lead to higher price points especially when selling wholesale to retailers who are still hesitant about investing in emerging sustainable brands as they are still trapped in the old loop of receiving lower unethically priced merchandise or to receive items on consignment basis therefore at no risk of their own which unfortunately can prove to be very difficult for niche brands to sustain themselves and enter the market. A more collaborative and sustainable approach needs to be implemented for all to flourish, stemming from the farmers who produce the fibres to the final client.

F2F: How does the design and production process work to maintain eco–friendliness and where does the manufacturing happen?

BT:

The brand’s DNA is built around a 360° conscious manifesto”, stemming from the digital low waste design process, innovative materials, through to an ethical and transparent production chain through to inner ecology wellness rituals. The project pledges to reduce the brand’s carbon footprint whilst making social contributions through its memberships which endeavour to support the ‘United Nations Sustainable Development Goals’. Bav Tailor is a member of Positive Luxury [CSR brand 2020], awarded the Butterfly Mark for a company-wide commitment to sustainability, and Common Objective [CO Leader 2019], through the mantra ‘respect your body+ your sphere’. The brand encourages to respect your body through the wellness materials that adorn the skin, whilst nurturing the sphere that surrounds us. Ethical production is 100 per cent Made in Italy for main collection, whilst the Artisanal Lab capsule collaborations strives to support global artisans renowned for their unique local craft that currently includes collaborations in India, Lebanon and Kenya.

F2F: How would you define ageless silhouettes and what pantone shades would you prefer for your collection?

BT:

Each Bav Tailor creation is a collective fusion of gender-neutral, generation less silhouettes and effortless geometrical volumes inspired by design, architecture and Eastern philosophies crafted from wellness certified natural, innovative, or recycled materials.


Each piece in the collection is soulfully categorised into five silhouettes for all creeds and forms:

Shakti symbolises energy and empowerment. Sartorial pieces that represent liberation, movement and divine femininity.Pieces inspired by the strength of a woman, the empowering Goddess; Shakti leaf gown.

Dvaita entails the concept of dualism, the existence of two separate realities. Each piece within the collection can be worn in at least two different ways.Pieces inspired to remain multi-functional to suit all souls; Dvaita leaf top.

Suci depicts clean and purified lines. Fabrics crisply align with the contours of the skin to cleanse the soul. Sartorial pieces inspired by Japanese origami techniques; Suci biker jacket.

Lokya bestows freedom. Pieces that allow movement and flexibility. Precious noble fibres that flow freely on the skin without restrictions, delicately allowing the body and mind to breath, respecting ethics and the environment; Lokya escape trousers.

Prana incorporates 3D elements which symbolise life force, an energy flow around the body. Pieces inspired by Japanese transformational reconstruction creating sartorial contours with exquisite materials that encase the body; Prana smile top.

The colour palette remains an exploration of crystals and earth tones fused into natural and researched materials that remain in symmetry with a sober, and balanced way of thinking, such as the brand colours: 
white moon // a symbol of insight and clarity. 
blue tourmaline // a symbol of creative communication to the heart.

F2F: How would you differentiate European market and Indian market and what changes can be done?

BT:

The European market seems to be attuned to discovering new international brands showcasing sustainable materials, avant-garde and understated silhouettes, and is requesting brands to become transparent in their sustainability road map. The concept of multi-brand retailers physical as well as digital, allows niche international brands to be discovered and expand internationally. Whilst the Indian market is rich in heritage and traditional craft techniques, with a very fast-forward fashion clientele who at present may steer more towards local designers or globally well-established brands. The focus on sustainability seems to be stemming more towards some Indian suppliers who are investing into conscious business models, creating purpose driven businesses which are trying to find solutions to the global climate issues being faced. I have heard some very inspiring stories of some Indian entrepreneurs which is truly heart-warming. For sure an increased focus on sustainability and enabling of technology will drive future growth for Indian craftsmen and women.

I feel the focus needs to be implemented within the retail structure as well which is very much mono brand for international brands. Investment in multi-brand retail spaces would allow niche luxury conscious brands such as myself to enter the Indian market to build a bridge between the Eastern and Western luxury market and help promote in an authentic manner the rich heritage and craftmanship that India has to offer without exploitation. For example, two of my Artisanal Lab projects showcased the refined knitting skills of a sisterhood of women artisans in Tamil Nadu, while my Shanti Wellness athflow/yogawear is consciously produced in Mumbai. Both projects showcased that Made in India means fine luxury craftsmanship not just for Indian traditional attire but western styled product categories. The concept behind these two collaborations is to showcase the exquisite creative talent of India, steering away from the stereotypical embroidery, craft, and dyeing techniques.

F2F: As your brand is collaborating with artisans and designers from all over the world, how do to manage to put things together and what complications were faced at the time of pandemic?

BT:

The pandemic gave me the opportunity to further discover some really beautiful talented artisans to collaborate with. To be honest, when you have an authentic synergy with an artisan or designer, there is a mutual respect between both parties to overcome any complications, which makes the collaboration even more fruitful. One of the key issues we had with one project was the shipment of items in time for my fashion week presentation in London, Milan and Paris. Therefore, we decided together to not just produce the hand block printed pieces on Lebanon but locally photograph and film the products which allowed us to narrate a better story of the Artisanal Lab project. This in turn provided international visibility not only to the artisans but also to the local talent from the photographer, director to the models as well as the location. Having one project that can showcase a culture and promote the local creative talent at all levels, becomes truly rewarding.

F2F: Share some tips for fashion enthusiasts who are willing to avoid fast fashion, but their habits and lifestyle is making it difficult.

BT:

The key is to make gradual changes. Firstly, our mindset needs to change. Focusing on trying to live a more conscious lifestyle through elevating your inner ecology is for sure the first step. How can you as a human-being become more responsible that goes beyond fashion, but through your everyday living. Once everyday habits start shifting towards a more conscious path, the next step will automatically arise. Shopping will be more efficient. The more clients start asking brands and retailers questions about the transparency of their product, the more investment brands and retailers will dedicate to sustainable practices and products. One of my life philosophies is not to be a sheep and follow others but lead responsibly with pride and hope through your best practices.

F2F: If you are allotted a wish, what would you ask for?

BT:

For my Bav Tailor holistic sphere to inspire all to think and act more consciously.

Interviewer: Kiran Sahija
Published on: 02/11/2021
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