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Autumn Winter 2013 collection
Guy Laroche's Autumn Winter collection 2013 isn't simply focussing on the frontier dividing men and women; rather, it is intertwining potent yet seemingly incompatible extremes- for a result with an unexpected twist. Using 1940's as a backdrop - think sharp, silhouette hugging suits with military nudge - Guy Laroche's creative Director Marcel Marongiu juxtaposes formal wear with sexual rather than sexy accessories. A strict blazer worn is paired with a harness instead of a bra, with no other embellishment than the model's pearly white skin.
Silk pencil dresses with a large zip that opens from both ends seem to encourage the woman to take off herself rather than wait for it to be removed from her - for a feminist sense of empowerment. In contrary, classically feminine references, such as silk flared trousers in shocking pink or deep purple are worn with such androgynous nonchalance that they become reminiscent of Prince or Jimmy Hendrix’s stage costumes that tame girliness.
Fond of turning classically luxury on its head, Marongiu doesn’t stop there. After toying with nibbled sequined silk in previous collections, he experiments with devoured lace piecing on lace evening dresses, for a radical sheerness, luxurious glossy python-like jackets turn out to be braided silk upon closer inspection, for a puzzling trompe l’oeil effect. Aviator jackets morph into redingotes and are worn with boisterous cocktail numbers, a look completed by Eiffel Tower high stilettos and leather gloves.
The gender - bending silhouettes suggest that a Guy Laroche girl is both the Eternel Feminine- and the gentleman inside Dietrich.
Summer 2013 collection
From Brasilia to Los Angeles, from Oscar Niemeyer streamlined volumes to Frank Gehry's sculptural lines, the Guy Laroche Spring-Summer 2013 draws inspiration from an airy, graphic modernism infused with futurism. Following the house's long-standing gender-bending experimentation, it gives an adventurous twist to formal wear: high and mid-waisted pleated trousers are worn with a Spencer jacket reworked into a frock coat, suit jackets are paired with ankle length skirts, and classical men's shirt are morphed into soft blouses.
Long is back, the collection seems to say, as both the day and nightwear come in floor-sweeping length. Severe, minimalist, the garments are also skin-revealing through their cheeky slits and cut-outs. Laroche maintains its trademark style and creates an adroit balance between pared down and sexy elegance. Colours range from nude, to powder pink and an indulgent use of navy blue. Crêpe, double crêpe, silk jersey, cotton poplin, embossed cotton, muslin reinforce the structured yet subversive tone of the collection.
