Next Gen Solutions are game-changing alternatives to traditional forest-based fibres

Canopy is an environmental non-profit committed to protecting the world’s forests, biodiversity, and climate while supporting the rights of frontline communities. Each year, billions of trees are logged for paper and fabric production—often from Ancient and Endangered Forests. Canopy collaborates with over 950 global brands and innovators to shift supply chains towards circular and sustainable solutions. The organisation has helped conserve over 39 million hectares of vital forests across Indonesia, Canada, and North America. Through partnerships and advocacy, Canopy envisions protecting at least 30–50 per cent of the world’s forests. In an exclusive interview with Fibre2Fashion, Founder & Executive Director Nicole Rycroft shares the journey behind Canopy, the promise of Next Gen materials, and why India is poised to lead a regenerative fashion revolution.

Fibre2Fashion: Ms. Nicole, you have spent over two decades leading environmental change. Can you take us back to the beginning, what inspired you to found Canopy, and what personal values continue to guide your journey?

Ms. Nicole Rycroft:

When I founded Canopy, it was with the conviction that we could rewrite the story of our planet’s forests — from one of depletion to one of conservation, regeneration and resilience. I had seen firsthand how unsustainable supply chains were driving deforestation, and I believed there was a better way — one where environmental progress and business innovation could go hand in hand. Guided by a deep love for nature, a belief in the power of collective, and a dose of stubborn optimism, I set out to fundamentally change the entrenched supply chains that were driving forest degradation. Nearly 25 years on, that spark has grown into a global movement — and I am more energised than ever to keep pushing for the future our forests, and all we share our planet with, deserve.

F2F: At Lakme Fashion Week, you spoke about ‘Next Gen Solutions’. For those new to the concept, how would you explain what these are, and why they matter right now, especially for fashion?

MNR:

Next Gen Solutions are game-changing alternatives to traditional forest-based fibres — think textiles made from agricultural residues, recycled textiles, or microbial cellulose instead of Ancient and Endangered Forests. These innovations slash carbon footprints, curb waste, and help keep vital ecosystems standing. In fashion, where viscose and rayon are often sourced from the world’s most climate-critical forests, Next Gen materials offer a path to style that does not cost the Earth. They are not some far-off future — Next Gen textiles are here now, scaling fast, and essential for any brand serious about having resilient supply chains, meeting climate goals, and staying ahead of evolving consumer expectations.

F2F: India is uniquely positioned when it comes to fashion, agriculture, and textile heritage. In your view, what makes India such a key player in scaling circular and forest-free innovations?

MNR:

India holds incredible potential to lead the charge in scaling circular, forest-free innovations. The country’s rich textile heritage, deep-rooted entrepreneurial culture, and significant agricultural and textile footprint make it uniquely positioned to be an early global leader of Next Gen solutions. With vast quantities of discarded textiles and agricultural residues that are often burned or wasted, India has the raw materials to turn what is seen as ‘waste’ into high-value, low-impact textiles. Add to that a dynamic fashion sector, technical expertise, growing government support, and a strong entrepreneurial ecosystem, and the ingredients for rapid scale-up are all there. By harnessing these strengths, India can be at the fore of shaping the future of sustainable fashion — while also creating sustainable jobs, reducing pollution, creating value added revenue streams for farmers and textile pickers, and easing pressure on the world’s forests.

F2F: You have collaborated with over 1,000 brands globally. From your experience, what are the biggest mindset shifts or breakthroughs needed in the fashion industry to mainstream sustainable materials?

MNR:

One of the biggest shifts we need — and are starting to see — is moving from sustainability as a side project to sustainability as a core business strategy. For too long, environmental impacts were treated as externalities. But with climate change induced supply volatility, biodiversity concerns, and consumer expectations converging, there is growing recognition that sourcing smarter, circular materials is not just good ethics — it is good economics. Another breakthrough is embracing collective action over competition. No brand can solve this alone, but together, we can build the market conditions, investment, and infrastructure to make sustainable materials the norm, not the niche. The solutions exist — what we need now is bold, aligned action to bring them to scale.

F2F: A major takeaway from the recent panel was India’s agricultural waste potential, over 100 million tonnes annually. How do you envision this untapped resource transforming into a cornerstone for a regenerative fashion future?

MNR:

India’s 100+ million tonnes of agricultural waste is not just an untapped resource — it is a golden opportunity to transform the fashion industry from extractive to regenerative. Instead of burning crop residues or letting them go to waste, we can turn them into high-quality textiles and packaging that are free of high-carbon forests, low-impact, and aligned with circular economy principles. It is a win for farmers, a win for the climate, and a win for brands looking to future-proof their supply chains. India is already the second largest producer of agri-fibre pulp — mainly for paper and packaging applications. With the right investment and collaboration, India could become a global hub for Next Gen textile fibre innovation — leading the way in showing how waste can open access to new markets and style can support sustainability.

F2F: You have worked with both high-street and high-fashion labels. How important is cross-sector collaboration from designers and manufacturers to policymakers and farmers in making meaningful progress?

MNR:

Cross-sector collaboration is not just important — it is essential. Transforming supply chains at the speed and scale the planet needs requires everyone at the table: designers who dream up the collections, manufacturers who bring them to life, policymakers who set the guardrails, and textile collectors and farmers who hold the keys to circular feedstocks. Whether it is a high-street staple or a couture statement piece, the thread that runs through all fashion is its supply chain — and that is where the transformation must happen. When each player brings their expertise and influence, we can move from isolated efforts to systemic change — and that is when the magic happens. Fashion can be a force for good, but only if we stitch this future together, collectively.

F2F: Designers like Amit Aggarwal and Urvashi Kaur are blending heritage techniques with modern sustainability. How do you see the role of designers evolving in this next phase of fashion innovation?

MNR:

Designers are the visionaries of the fashion world — they shape not only what we wear, but increasingly, how it is made and what it stands for. Creatives like Amit Aggarwal and Urvashi Kaur are showing how tradition and sustainability can be beautifully intertwined, marrying heritage craft with modern materials to entrench sustainability as part of the aspirational lifestyle. As we enter the next phase of fashion innovation, designers will play a pivotal role in driving demand for low-impact, circular fibres and redefining what luxury and desirability mean. Their choices ripple across the supply chain — from the farms to the factory floor to the runways — making them powerful agents of change in building a fashion future that is both stylish and sustainable.

F2F: The fashion industry often grapples with balancing beauty, performance, and sustainability. What have you seen in Next Gen materials that give you confidence that these needs can co-exist?

MNR:

The good news is that we no longer have to choose between beauty, performance, and sustainability. Next Gen materials have come a long way in just a few years, and what we are seeing now on the market is nothing short of transformative. Next Gen materials meet, and often exceed, the aesthetic and functional standards designers expect, while slashing carbon footprints and keeping ancient forests standing. From silky drapes to structured tailoring, Next Gen textiles are proving that sustainability does not mean compromise — it means innovation. As more brands and producers lean in, economies of scale are kicking in, unlocking even greater quality and accessibility. The result? A future where fashion feels good, looks good, and does good — all at once.

F2F: Canopy is known for taking on some of the toughest environmental challenges, from protecting Ancient and Endangered Forests to transforming supply chains. What has been one of the most challenging moments for you as a leader, and what kept you going?

MNR:

One of the most challenging moments was in the early days of CanopyStyle, when we set out to shift the opaque, capital-intensive, and deeply entrenched viscose supply chain — from ancient forests to circular solutions. We were new to the fashion space and there was no roadmap, and many said it could not be done. We were going up against powerful interests and decades of ‘business as usual’. But what kept me going — and still does — is the clarity of purpose. Knowing that the world’s forests are critical to climate stability, biodiversity, and communities makes giving up simply not an option. And time and again, I have seen that when you bring courage, a solutions-oriented strategy, and spirit of collaboration to the table, even the most entrenched systems can change. Environmental heroes come in many shapes and sizes. At Canopy, we are fortunate to work with hundreds of brand executives who champion innovative solutions every day. They do not wear a cape, but they are unlocking incredible change. We have gone from zero to over 550 brands and 90 per cent of global viscose producers now aligned with forest conservation and a circular future. That is the power of persistence — and the power of working together.

F2F: On a personal note, how do you stay grounded while navigating global conversations, high-impact partnerships, and climate challenges? Are there any rituals or habits that keep you aligned with your mission?

MNR:

Spending time in nature is my reset button — whether it is hiking, surfing, or simply sitting under a tree. I also make space to connect with my team, reflect on impact, and celebrate wins, big or small. Staying grounded means remembering why we do this work and holding onto hope, even in the face of daunting challenges.

F2F: Looking ahead, what does a truly sustainable fashion industry look like to you? What are some key shifts—whether cultural, technological, or structural—that you believe must happen?

MNR:

A sustainable fashion industry is one where forests are left standing, waste becomes feedstock, and equity is woven into every step of the supply chain. We need technological breakthroughs, yes — but we also need a cultural shift that values longevity over disposability, collaboration over competition. Structurally, we need investment in circular infrastructure and policies that reward those at the fore of sustainable practices.

F2F: Finally, what is your message to the next generation of fashion professionals—the designers, entrepreneurs, and innovators who want to shape an industry that is both creative and climate-conscious?

MNR:

To the next generation of fashion changemakers, I would say: this is your moment. You have the creativity, the courage, and the clarity to design not just beautiful garments, but a beautiful future. The fashion industry is at a tipping point — and your choices will shape whether it becomes a driver of regeneration or remains a source of harm. So, dream big. Challenge ‘business as usual’. Decouple your business and designs from raw materials. Give preference to Next Gen materials. Look for pre-competitive vehicles like CanopyStyle that are catalysing the scale of change needed through this large global supply chains. The world needs your bold ideas and your fierce optimism. Because when fashion is done right, it does not just reflect culture — it moves it.