A well-made suit is the highest form of clothing

Ester Kubisz, a London-based designer and founder of her eponymous label, is known for her high-end, gender-fluid collection. Kubisz’s collections have won several awards, such as Best Garment Design at Mercedes Benz FW, Fashion Scout’s Ones to Watch and were highlighted at London Fashion Week as well as internationally. In an interview with Fibre2Fashion, the designer shares her thoughts on fashion in current times v/s now, insights on challenges faced as a fashion designer, and suggests wardrobe staples for fashion enthusiasts. 

Fibre2Fashion: Please share about your background and as a child. Did you have any hobby?  

Ester Kubisz:

I was generally curious about pretty much everything around me. I did a lot of sports – horse riding, swimming, tennis, karate. I owned all the pets possible (hamster, dogs, budgies, tortoises, fish, cats) and I loved to read. The two things that really stayed with me is my love for horses and literature.

F2F: What are your greatest strengths and weaknesses? 

EK:

I think strength-wise it would be independence and my energy levels. Meaning that I am used to doing all the bits when putting together a new collection – design, pattern cutting, sewing, creative direction. So, if anything goes wrong, I can just step in and do it myself, however this also transforms to my weakness. I struggle with letting go of control and asking for help.

F2F: How would you define fashion and what is your style?  

EK:

For me it is about the thought behind, quality and comfort. I do not really associate with the word ‘fashion’ or what is ‘trendy’. My aim is to create timeless pieces that are of great quality and designed in a way that will not grow old after one season.  

F2F: Why particularly lines and suits in your label? What is the emotion connected with them?

EK:

It is my personal fascination and obsession with tailoring. A well-made suit for me is the highest form of clothing. It literally gives me shivers when I see a well-made and fitting blazer. And the pinstripe is linked with it. A pinstripe suit is one of the most traditional attires and so I like to look inside, study, take apart, deconstruct, and re-create this tradition. 

F2F: What type of clientele do your designs attract and how does the retail part work? 

EK:

It is quite a wide range actually. From women-bosses in high profile positions who like to dress innovatively but not too extravagantly to avant-garde dressing men in artistic style jobs. So rather than gender or profession or age the customers who like to wear the brand are usually sophisticated, curious about the world, put effort and thought in what they wear and are open minded. To put in one sentence, they are modern customers looking for a style which is radical without being extravagant, alternative without being outrageous, and practical without being pedestrian.

F2F: How would you differentiate the fashion in current times as compared to the pre-COVID times?

EK:

I feel there has been a bigger shift to ‘shopping local’ as people are less likely to travel, but that might be just my narrow perception and we’ll have to wait and see as the world is slowly reopening again. I also started seeing retailers and consumers being more conscious about where things come from and the same with manufacturers, which is definitely amazing to see. 

F2F: What do you find most exciting and, conversely, most challenging about being a fashion designer? 

EK:

Keeping the brand/business afloat, especially in COVID times. Also finding the balance between what sells and what is your creative vision, combining these two and coming out with the solution to address problems your customers have when searching for clothing and to satisfy your personal need of expression. 

F2F: What tips would you suggest for having a classic formal capsule collection and what are the wardrobe essentials for a fashion enthusiast? 

EK:

Our signature ‘Zazou’ fit trousers, an easy t-shirt to tuck in, and a slightly oversized blazer are an absolute must. I find it is the perfect combination as it can be both casual and formal and most importantly with well-tailored fitting trousers you can go all day into the night in one outfit feeling like a rockstar.

F2F: Are you passionate about something apart from fashion? 

EK: