Fashion has always been my most authentic means of self-expression

Jayen Pillay is a visionary designer whose eponymous label seamlessly merges fashion, artistry, and sustainability. With a deep passion for architecture and an eye for aesthetic purity, Jayen’s designs serve as an expressive medium where clean lines, refined textures, and eco-conscious materials come together to create timeless, elegant pieces..  

Fibre2Fashion: What inspired you to start your eponymous label?

Jayen Pillay:

Fashion has always been my most authentic means of self-expression. It is where my personality, my preferences, and my vision come to life. Therefore, my eponymous label was born—not just as a brand, but as an embodiment of my innermost desires and inspirations. I was captivated by the idea of fashion as a language—one that goes beyond clothing to empower, inspire, and transform. It was the natural way for me to introduce my creative spirit to the world, translating my passion for architecture and purity of form into wearable art. It is the only medium where I can bring life to shapes and fabrics by creating emotive pieces, free of boundaries.

F2F: How would you define your design philosophy and brand aesthetics?

JP:

My design philosophy revolves around purity in form, elegance, and underscoring natural beauty. Each piece is defined by clean lines, refined textures, and a blend of neutral and sober colours, with an emphasis on eco-friendly fabrics. I am always seeking a smooth, sleek finish with subtle textures, ensuring the clothing appeals to the senses—conveying grandeur, high status, and luxury. My designs portray an independent, delicate, and feminine woman, balancing classic style with modernity. The cuts accentuate the body without being revealing, and the minimalist construction enhances both simplicity and elegance.

F2F: How does your style evolve from season to season?

JP:

As for the evolution of my style, each season builds on the last, but I do not follow trends—I set the trends for my label seasonally. My label exists to express my uniqueness. I constantly push the boundaries of my own creative vision, experimenting with new fabrics, techniques, and silhouettes. While my core principles remain unchanged—refined craftsmanship, sophisticated lines, and a commitment to sustainability—I aim to surprise and captivate with every new collection. Fashion, for me, is an art form born from the designer’s imagination that transcends fleeting trends.

F2F: What are some specific practices of your label that distinguish from the others?

JP:

From the thread, stitch type, through the fabrics, to the Corozo buttons, every component is made to measure, designed to fit and built to last. I ensure that each detail is thoughtfully selected and crafted with precision, ensuring both functionality and beauty. Everything is sustainably sourced, in harmony with the environment, to reduce our ecological footprint while maintaining the highest standards of luxury. My designs are made to endure, both in terms of their craftsmanship and their relevance to the wearer’s identity over time.

F2F: What is your signature piece that truly capture the essence of your brand?

JP:

A signature piece that truly captures the essence of my brand is the ‘Little Black Dress’, which embodies the timeless sophistication and attention to detail that my label stands for. The dress is a perfect blend of classic elegance and modern refinement, featuring over 500 hand-placed elements and fine appliqué, meticulously crafted to enhance the fabric’s structure and texture. The dress can be worn with the two draped sleeves over the arms to flatter the bust, or over the bust to reveal the delicate lightness of the slender arms.

F2F: What inspired you to prioritise eco-conscious materials in your designs, and how has your approach to sustainability evolved over the years?

JP:

My decision to prioritise eco-conscious materials in my designs was driven by a deep sense of responsibility to the environment and the future of fashion. As a designer, I believe that beauty and sustainability can harmoniously co-exist. By using sustainable materials, I was delighted to discover that I could express my genuine eco-responsible values through my creations. I use fabrics such as: organic cotton, cupro, bamboo lyocell, among others, as well as supercritical fluid dyeing (SFD) for minimal footprint on the environment.

F2F: For your latest collection, how did you translate the essence of a coastal escape into your designs, in terms of mood?

JP:

For my latest collection, I wanted to capture the sensory experience of coastal landscapes—listening to the rhythm of the waves, observing the natural beauty, and inhaling the fresh, salty air. I found this environment evoked a sense of calm, passivity, and free flow. Translating this into design, I chose soft, fluid textures like cotton velour, and a colour palette of pale earth tones and gentle light blues. The silhouettes are deliberately soft, with obtuse cuts rather than angular, evoking a relaxed yet refined aura. The collection is minimalist, with no heavy undertones, yet it is imbued with a subtle hint of extravagance.

F2F: You have crafted a set from cotton and bamboo velour—a fabric difficult to work with. What drew you to explore this fabric and what challenges did you face in perfecting it?

JP:

Working with these velour fabrics has been both a labour of love and a journey of discovery. The delicate balance between its softness, stretch, and luxurious texture drew me in. Bamboo velour, in particular, resonates with my brand’s natural aesthetic. Its earthy, undyed tones embody the essence of simplicity and natural beauty, which is why I leave it in its raw state—allowing the fabric to retain its natural colour and character. This aligns with my commitment to sustainability, as the fabric does not change colour throughout its lifetime, echoing the purity and longevity I aim for in my creations. 

F2F: Looking back on your journey, what have been the biggest challenges and most rewarding moments?

JP:

Beautifully articulated through the proverbial statement, “Diamonds are made under pressure,” I endured the toughest times when my customers gave me tight deadlines to meet. Ironically, those moments were the times when some of my most beautiful pieces were born. The pressure I had to bear forced me to trust my instincts and push beyond my comfort zone, which often resulted in the most creative breakthroughs. There is something about working within time constraints that leads to unexpectedly extraordinary design outcomes.  

F2F: What do think the future holds for you and your upcoming direction?

JP:

I believe the future holds exciting possibilities for my label. As we continue to grow, I see opportunities to expand our horizons and venture into new territories without ever compromising on the core values that define the brand. One direction I am excited about is exploring a new swimwear line. This move will bring my signature blend of high-tech fabrics, sustainable materials, and timeless elegance into a new market.