Head of Design
H & M
H&M was established in Vasteras, Sweden in 1947 by Erling Persson.Today this fashion brand sells clothes and cosmetics in around 2,000 stores around the world. H&M offers fashion and quality at the best price.
Fibre2fashion : What is your design Philosophy and design signatures.
The challenge in my work is the search for authenticity and artisanship in fashion. The difference between confection and prêt-à-porter or couture is to be found in how it is made. Handwork, quality of fabric, and building a piece layer by layer, differentiates my work from confection. I’m in search of old values in a new world. The motivation in my work is to transfer craftsmanship and the old values into different and modern designs.
Fibre2fashion : Which idea of design excites you more, Couture lines or Prêt lines.
Due to my belief in artisanship, every garment is created by hand on the dummy to develop its characteristic shape. These traditional construction processes and unique draping techniques guarantee a highly appreciated quality and an exclusive collection. So, it’s undoubtedly the couture lines that excite me the most.
Fibre2fashion : Do you believe in fashion being functional, what is your individual approach while designing any new collection.
I think I am from the generation of designers who are really making a constructive fashion ; I was trained quiet intensively on draping techniques and construction of clothing in that period in the academy. It is all about beauty and looking for the antique aesthetics of the fifties and sixties. The 50ties were really a clash between classic and real modern art. Fashion design should touch your emotions and help you to discover new values. I also design for international Opera, dance, theatre creations, as well as for movie so I work very closely with the director, writer, composer, and the artistic team. Indulging in theatre and working closely with this genre gives me immense inspiration which I later try to translate through my own prêt à porter collections, needless to say which have to be Conceptual, constructive wearable. In theatre I can go further, it’s so much more then clothes. It’s a study, with all actors, the time period, the setting, and the decor Becoming one story. There I can retreat myself from fashion and reflect my work. it allows me to explore and learn how clothing, colour, and shape treatments can express feelings and leave an impact by attracting people and vice versa.
Fibre2fashion : What all inspirations have influenced the latest A/W-2010 collections that you showcased recently, kindly elaborate.
As the costume designer for Wagner’s ‘Der Ring des Nibelungen’ at the Scala of Milan, the women’s collection Autumn Winter 2010-2011 has been designed in the atmosphere of the ‘Reingold’ saga. This first opera has its opening night on May 13th and the cycle continues until 2013. The collection suggests strong lines on a semi transparent base which moves like waterlines or smoke around the body. A drapery appears like a pencil scratch on a paper. Graphic patterns paired with a mix of shiny and mat, fluid and structured fabrics provokes a contrast of a feminine and a masculine look. Contemporary composition translates traditional techniques in search for the future. Refined artisan details in strong structured pieces are found in the motion of sculptor painter Lucio Fontana. With one bold stroke, one plead, a dress becomes a purified sculptured canvas. The energy of the action creates slashed front panels and frayed figures. Geometric constructions of lines, cording and zippers are detailed with a raw cut finishing. The silhouettes, always dedicated to the artisanship, come alive in a new elegant urban couture look, reflected by the late 50’s, beginning of the 60’s.
Fibre2fashion : As a designer what styles and trends are you finding the most exciting for the coming Autumn- Winter 2010.
A variety of textures created by combining different materials. A jacket with scarf, a tailor cut blazer with comfortable jersey details, an easy sweater dress with leather look details, a cardigan knit design, luxurious lingerie and sunglasses.