Since 1970: A LONG DREAM
"I keep making dreams. Every one of us needs to dream. We must keep on dreaming."
Roberto Cavalli
1970 - 2013: This is an important anniversary because it coincides with a fresh maturity reflected in his vision, and a realization of the design goals he has long been working towards. Above all, it is a fulfilment of the role destiny had prepared him for-prepared from birth to walk a unique path marked by creativity, genius and willpower.
THE ORIGINS: Roberto Cavalli didn't grow up surrounded by fashion, but at home he found art, colours, and a sense of creativity. He was born in Florence on November 15th 1940, into a family that was already using the tools of his soon-to-be trade: brushes and palettes. His grandfather was Giuseppe Rossi-a prominent exponent of the Macchiailo pictorial trend, which was established in Florence in the mid 19th Century-and whose paintings were already displayed in the monumental rooms of the Uffizi Gallery in Florence. His father died when he was only four, and from then on he found strength and guidance in his mother, Marcella, who played a fundamental role in Roberto's decision to study Fine Arts. Once Roberto completed his studies at the Florence School of Art, he knew that his future would take him far beyond the opportunities provided by standard qualifications. His road to success was elsewhere: in the world of imagination, invention, creativity.
FROM DRAWING TO PRINTING
Mid Sixties: Roberto Cavalli painted, but did not spend too much time in front of his easel. Instead, he moved around a lot. He often travelled to Como, home of the most renowned Italian silk makers. Through observation of the working looms-and the silks being printed there-he came up with an innovative printing technique that enabled him to print his patterns on whole garments, interrupted only by adornments and seams. For the industrial silk sector, his work was truly innovative. Roberto soon found himself running a studio with sixteen people, and personally managing every single job for which he received a commission. This was the beginning of Stampa Cavalli (Cavalli Printing), almost a trademark, which is recognizable beyond all attempts at imitation. However, the fashion world had an eye on him and soon provided him with a wonderful opportunity. It was 1969. Florence hosted a major world shoe exhibition. Roberto met Mario Valentino, a name which had made history in the Italian fashion world and who was then universally appreciated for his leather clothing. The two of them came up with the idea of using the same printing technique that was used on silk, on leather. In a very short time, prints on leather carried the signature of Mario Valentino, Pierre Cardin and Hermès-and Cavalli thought why couldn’t they then carry the signature of Roberto Cavalli himself?
THE DEBUT : Paris, Salon du Prêt-à-Porter, February 1970. A new trademark stood out among others on the international fashion prêt-à-porter stage: Roberto Cavalli. General amazement and immediate success followed when evening gowns and swim costumes made of printed leather were shown. But for Roberto this was not enough. He went back to Florence and decided to transfer his creativity onto an unexpected item to bring it to the limelight: jeans. In 1972, in the Sala Bianca (White Hall) of the Pitti Palace in Florence, patchwork trousers, mini dresses, maxi coats in leather, and jeans took center stage on the prestigious catwalk. Once more, the unusual representation triggered amazement and was an instant success. Word of mouth from industry insiders turned into fame among the wider public, and Roberto Cavalli quickly became the most popular trademark in both traditional European venues and the emerging US market.
MILAN: THE RISE OF A STAR: 1994 came fast. In terms of fashion, the 80s unravelled under the blinding lights of the New Baroque and Maximalism: a weak hedonism doomed to end with the re-polishing of Minimalism. This was not an interesting period for Roberto, who dedicated himself at the same time to his business as well as to horse breeding. The minimalist pauperism was doomed to end and the Cavalli trademark seemed to be destined to become the protagonist of the new fashion trend. Then came the time of his first official fashion shows at Milano Collezioni, where the look of his new jeans created using a special ageing sand jet technique opened the road to what would become glamour by Roberto Cavalli. The refrain marked the birth of a new femininity which enhanced and celebrated shapely women. It became the new trend. However, the term "trend" soon became too limited to describe his success. Roberto Cavalli became a true fashion star of the 90s, a phenomenon that-according to informed observers-was destined to last for a long time, as it was built on the pillars of lifestyle rather than the quicksand of passing trends. Imagination and creativity merged with research and technology. The typical Cavalli prints became increasingly modern. Even the classic animalier turned into a true distinctive mark that continuously recreated itself through new contemporary forms. In terms of jeans, Cavalli introduced yet another revolution: the introduction of the Lycra fibre, which made them stretchy.
